Sapporo is the main city of the northernmost island of Japan, Hokkaido.
Why are we here?
As stated earlier, I really wanted to see (and smell!) colorful autumn foliage—also called koyo, a phenomenon much treasured by the Japanese. Obviously, this occurs at different times, in different locations: first, in the north, then gradually moving south, peaking in Kyoto sometime in November (and in further-south parts of the country, even later). According to every resource I could consult while planning the trip in August, peak koyo season hits Tohoku, the northern regions of Honshu, in late September.
This is the updated version, published in October–
the one I studied in September had all the dates a month earlier!
(Kyoto is in the Kansai region)
Normally, that is. Or rather, historically: normal is a word that should no longer be used for weather and climate. That is, I had a hunch that September might be warmer than usual this year, so, while spending many hours researching ways to visit Tohoku, I also allowed for the possibility of traveling further north, to Hokkaido, where koyo would historically be past its peak at this time of year.
In mid-September, as the time for our departure neared, it became clear that Tohoku was off the table, and I started solidifying arrangements for Hokkaido. And rather than spend a couple days in one city and then pack up and move, it was clearly better to stay in Sapporo. Especially with so many opportunities for jazz there!
It was only after we arrived in Sapporo that the updated “forecast” was published, pushing all the dates back by a month! September was even warmer than anyone imagined possible, delaying the koyo. But we could still catch the beginning of it, at the higher elevations… if we can get there! Yes, there are group tours traveling in busses with some kind of guide, but our general discomfort with crowds (and their inevitable spoiling of quiet commune with nature), our lack of Japanese language skill, and especially our distaste for mass-marketed tourist experiences, makes a custom-guided tour the only attractive option. And the number of companies providing custom guided tours, in English, on Hokkaido, is…
…one.
We will get to the mountains, but first, a day just to explore the city.
Sapporo does have a tourist industry, but mostly for domestic tourists: Japanese skiers in the winter, and southerners escaping the heat in the summer. So English-language support is sparse. Through an agency, we hire a local guide, Zarina. She tuns out to be not local at all, but a Russian student at the university. Her English is perfect, though— better than her Japanese! And she knows her way around the city, well enough for us.
We’re hungry, so the first stop is brunch. She leads us to the nearby Fish Market, where people literally stand in lines out the door for popular restaurants. But our timing is good, we don’t have to wait long for fabulous sushi. Then we take a quick look at the nearby market stalls. These crabs are stupendous—one is bigger than a dinner plate, and is priced at over $200 US.
Next, a hit of greenery. Zarina tells us her favorite place is the Botanical Garden, and we are eager to immerse in it. On the same site is a small museum of the indigenous Ainu culture. Seeing some of these artifacts, especially the shaman’s tools, gives me another one of those dejà vu moments. Seems like I belonged here, once.
Esso wants to see roses. We think they are out of season, but we find plenty of blooms. My bliss is conifers—pines, cedars, and this beautiful larch.
More exploring: a “covered market”—not quite a mall, but a roofed-over pedestrian street with innumerable shops, running for about 6 blocks. (Some of the entrances lead to multi-story department stores, so it’s practically a shopping fractal!) Likewise, a long stretch of (very modern) subway tunnel that really is a mall, with plenty of restaurants and convenience stores. Sensible, in a city where winters get very snowy.
By this time, we’re ready for lunch. Zarina takes us to the famous home of Hokkaido’s most distinctive dish, soup curry. Again, there’s a queue out the door, but the wait is not too long. The basic soup is the same (in contrast to Thai or Indian curries), but you can choose what kind of meat and vegetables go into it, and how spicy it is. Delicious!
I got mine with roast lamb–wow, what flavor!
Rice is the side dish.
We say goodbye to Zarina, and spend most of the afternoon resting, and finalizing plans for our mountain trips. In the evening, we indulge in an oyster dinner. This place has about a dozen varieties of oysters on the menu, many of them local, and others from elsewhere in the country. They also have about 30 craft beers, including some from as far away as the US. I enjoy a Goose Island IPA, and a selection of big, utterly delectable local oysters. (They don’t bother offering any sauce or butter here, but provide Tabasco when I ask)
We’ll be staying here all week; stay tuned.
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